Pet Shop vs. Breeder: The Pros and Cons

Buying from a large, commercial pet store (such as PetCo, PetSmart, Pet Nutrition Center, etc.) has many many cons, but most people are blind to them when first diving into the rat world. The reality is that many of these rats are weaned too early, not handled nearly enough during the vital socialization period, and sometimes are gravely ill. If you're lucky, you'll have a rat who lives in good health until little over a year old. Rarely do pet store rats make it to over two years -- if you have one thats 24 months+, you're lucky! This isn't to say that pet store rats aren't great pets - Brittany (right, agouti hooded), was a PetSmart rat. She was two years old before she crossed the rainbow bridge. She was the BEST, and we loved her endlessly!

A rat bred by a hobby breeder has a much better chance of living longer and staying healthy. They're usually handled extensively from birth -- and on! Records are kept and pedigrees are tracked. The more history you know about the line, the more you can predict in the future! Spending two to three dollars extra from a breeder can and most likely will save you a few hundred later in vet bills, and hopefully stave off heartache for another year or more.

How long will I have my rat?

That depends a lot on you. How much time and money are you willing to put into your four-legged furry companion? If you keep up on their basic husbandry and take them to the vet when needed, you may have a long lived, happy pet for as many as 3 1/2 years -- sometimes as much as four or five.

Male

Males by nature are more squishy - that is, they like to cuddle more and tend to be a little more subdue than their female counterparts. Unlike the problem you have with male mice and hamsters, male rats can live together in a colony situation just fine provided they're introduced properly. They will get larger than females, and they do have .. of course .. testicles.

Female

Females are like any other female - busy, I have things to DO! That doesn't mean they won't cuddle, they're just more interested in their surroundings for awhile longer than boys are, and usually play things by their own terms. Females are generally smaller, both in length and weight.

What the heck do I need to "quarantine" for? My rat is healthy!

Sure, you think your rat is healthy now -- and so is that cute little one you just picked up! But what if you can't see the infection brewing inside them? You should do a standard quarantine - that's a minimum of two weeks, preferably three - in a separate air space, to avoid infecting your current kid with anything gross! Many of these viruses are extremely life threatening. Ask any rattery.. they'll tell you that quarantine is positively essential!

How often should I clean rattie's cage?

The smaller the cage, the more often you'll need to clean it! You should be cleaning a minimum of once a week. Any less, and your rat may get sick - and that's no fun.

What should I keep my rat in?

A nice, solid bottomed cage with wire sides and a wire top for easy ventilation is preferable. Since rats have such sensitive respiratory systems, make sure there is plenty of air circulation, but not a draft necessarily.

Cedar & Pine: JUST SAY NO!

Cedar and pine are simply no-nos! They contain phenols, the stuff that makes them - well, stinky! Think about it.. if you can smell it, your little rat is having to sleep and eat in it, and its 20,000 times more strong to him. Ick! Phenols are caustic, and because of that, the nasal and throat passages are constantly irritated.. which leads to bacterial infections and a lovely vet bill usually. Over time, they can cause liver and kidney damage, as well as lung damage. So just say NO and stick with Aspen and recycled newspaper beddings!